how to realistically bleach long dark roots without breakage + grey formula

 

TIMESTAMPS

0:43 - What I did to bleach and color?

3:03 - What questions do I need to solve before the appointment?

3:20 - Analyzing the canvas we are working with.

3:50 - What formula to use on dark levels going blonde?

4:02 - Why do you need a pre-treatment?

4:15 - What pre-treatments do I use?

4:32 - Why don't I prefer using conditioners or masks?

4:40 - Using oils as a pre-treatment

5:02 - Why do I prefer Botugen instead of other products

5:57 - What do I do if it was shorter regrowth?

6:30 - Why do I apply on the middle first for super long regrowth?

7:01 - How did I select my bleach?

7:15 - Why I don’t use something thin in consistency?

7:25 - What is my bleach formula?

7:30 - Why I don’t mix less developer in my bleach?

7:48 - What variables are affected when you mix less or more developer?

8:45 - What does Oro Therapy Bleach consistency look like?

8:55 - How long should I leave the bleach on for?

9:50 - How light did it get before I toned the hair?

10:02 - How do you formulate for ashes?

10:57 - What toners am I using on the ends (previously bleached/colored areas)

10:33 - What is my thought process while formulating the next toner?

11:40 - What formula is used on the mids (bleached area that is level 7-8)

12:03 - Why do I tone the root area different?

12:25 - What is the root formula (to blend the natural and warmth to the mids)

13:11 - Why cant I use just one formula?

13:25 - Test strands of each formula on a dollhead

14:36 - Test strands results

17:34 - Test strands dried

17:45 - Final results

17:52 - What to tell your clients for followup

18:20 - What is the plan?

 

FAQ

Q: Why did you choose a darker color when you bleached it so light?

A: Ash hair color does not last very long and if you over deposit the ash pigments at first more pigment will stay on the hair when the client washes it

Q: Why did the ends of the hair lift?

A: I tend to add extra treatment or shampoo during processing while I am checking for elasticity, this tends to mix with the bleach slightly and lift out the toner that was there before without damage.

Q: Why did you leave out the roots?

A: The roots get light quickly but if I bleach the roots while doing a complicated processes, it might add an extra hour or two to the appointment.  This will make the appointment too long or i would leave the bleach on the mids for too much time and cause breakage. 

Q: Why don't you rinse out the bleach and rebleach the roots?

A:  Washing the hair will also remove the natural oils on the scalp and onscalp bleach will be very uncomfortable.

Q: What do you recommend for aftercare?

A: I recommend Fanola Fiber Fix Bond Connector to keep the hair healthy and Fanola Free No Yellow Shampoo to keep it ash.

Q: When should the client come in again?

A: they should come in 3 weeks later or after to rebleach.